December 06, 2006

Guatemala: Market Report (video clip)


A mid-day walk through Antigua's mercado central. Link to video (in Flash or Quicktime). Some still screengrabs below, more here. (Tech notes: shot with Canon SD630 Elph. What cheap ultracompacts like this lack in ability to produce quality footage, they make up for in unobtrusiveness.).

Video still: Market snapshot

Video still: Yawning child selling strawberries

Tortilla vendor

Technorati Tags: , , , ,

Labels:

Guatemala: mercado snapshots

Flickr photoset here: Link.

Religious items for sale in a marketplace stall.

Pom, veladoras

Magic STFU powder.

Lucy powders: STFU

Between a stand that sells fried pork rinds and another that sells shredded green mango with chile, the exceedingly popular sala de videojuegos.

Sala de Videojuegos

Technorati Tags: , ,

Labels:

Guatemala: over 21K women annually hospitalized with botched abortions

Abortion is illegal in Guatemala, unless it can be proven to authorities as necessary to save the life of a mother. That fact combined with widespread poverty, sexism, and lack of health education results in some of the most dismal women's reproductive health statistics in the hemisphere. Over 21,000 women in Guatemala each year require medical treatment for complications related to unsafe abortions, out of a total 65,000 annually attempted. And many of those women die.

Those figures are based on data gathered in 2003, and released in a new report from the Guttmacher Institute, a global health nonprofit. The report is the subject of news reports today in Guatemala. Here's my clumsy translation of an item that appeared in the Guatemalan newspaper Prensa Libre:

The legal restriction on abortion in Guatemala doesn't stop women from seeking abortion, and the lack of access to contraception only makes the situation worse," explained Edgar Kestler, a doctor who participated in the [Guttmacher Institute] study.

Many women, most of all in rural areas, attempt to interrupt pregnancies with herbal brews or pills of various types. They seek help from comadronas (midwives/healers) or at the pharmacy. They also visit curanderos (traditional/spiritual healers) or women known ass "señoras”, who introduce foreign objects into the womb to induce abortion, for instance, metal wires. These cause hemmorage, and damage to the womb. Very few women who seek abortions try to get help from doctors, because the cost is higher.

Kestler said that many women who have problems after an abortion try to solve them in their homes, or with help from a comadrona, because they fear social retribution or because they don't have economic means to do otherwise. They arrive late to hospitals, and because of their wounds, many die or it becomes impossible for them to get pregnant again.

It's a problem that affects many women who are silenced, but the problem is known by everyone, and the authorities need to take steps to reduce it," Kestler said.

Link

Technorati Tags: , , ,

Labels:

December 05, 2006

Guatemala: Coffee Porn (video clip and photos)

Guatemala: Fernando's Kaffee

I've been traveling throughout Guatemala since early November. On the days I spent in Antigua, each morning, the second-story room where I stayed filled with the most luscious roasted coffee smell. Surely there is no incense more fragrant, no perfume more enticing, in all the world. I followed the scent-trail downstairs and discovered a neat little cafe run by a very nice guy named Fernando.

Guatemala: Fernando's Kaffee

He roasts local beans every morning, and brews amazing coffee there. Rich, foamy, just the right ratio of bitter to sweet. And you can buy a desayuno tipico for like $3 or so... tasty breakfasts with handmade tortillas, black beans, friend plantains, and eggs however you like 'em. Oh and KILLER COFFEE.


I shot a little video with a tiny handheld camera (Canon SD630 Powershot), and took a few stills. Not the greatest quality, but hopefully you get a feel for the place. I wish you could smell it, though!

Link to video (2:30 long, in Flash or Quicktime -- on Revver, where they're revamping their whole site UI today...). Link to Flickr photoset: Fernando's Kaffee.

If you're in Antigua, stop by and please say hi for me. The people there are really cool. Fernando's Kaffee is right on the corner of 7a Avenida Norte and Calle Campo Seco, near two budget class hotels popular with North American tourists: Posada La Merced, and Casa Cristina (both of which offer free WiFi to guests, btw). Guatemala: Fernando's Kaffee

Technorati Tags: , , , ,

Labels:

Guatemala: museum exhibit of teeny-tiny Xmas creches


Reader Juan E. Aguilar says,

I hope your travels in Guatemala are continuing well. If you are in Guatemala City between today and the 12th, you can visit a Miniature Creche Exposition at the Museo Ixchel to benefit the "Asociación Fomento de Oportunidades para Guatemala." It is an exposition of 600 miniature nativity scenes from 61 countries collected by my mother and father over the past 25 years, facilitated by his globetrekking work for UNICEF. I am attaching a scan from today's Prensa Libre about the show.
JPEG Link to Juan's scan, and you can read/see the article online here, at prensalibre.com: Link.

Labels:

Indigenous films made by indigenous people


Snip from a Wired News article by Jason Silverman:

On weekends, Mariano Estrada Aguilar packs up his video equipment and heads to one of the many outlying villages in Chiapas. Come nightfall, he'll find the biggest blank wall in town, power up his portable projector -- wiring it to the battery of a car if there's no electricity -- and show a few of the 27 videos he's made in his village of San Manuel.

Estrada is one of an emerging breed of DIY indigenous filmmakers attempting to galvanize their increasingly fractured societies through digital video. From La Paz, Bolivia to Oaxaca, Mexico to Nunavut on the Canadian Arctic Circle, video is becoming an essential organizing tool.

"We don't think of our videos as entertainment up on the screen," Estrada said during opening remarks at the Native American Film and Video Festival, which took place over the weekend at the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian, or NMAI, in lower Manhattan. "We hope to inspire reflection and ponder the situations that our communities are up against."

According to filmmakers at the festival, those situations include displacement from their ancestral lands, environmental degradation, loss of language and a flood of mainstream entertainment that's overwhelming their own cultural traditions.

Link

Technorati Tags: ,

Robert Gates and CIA history in Guatemala


Image: "Two former CIA directors, George Bush, Sr. and his long-serving acolyte and protege, Robert Gates."

A good place to begin, GWU's National Security Archives file on Robert Gates: Link.

First, the man nominated by President Bush to lead the Pentagon advocated bombing Nicaragua in 1984:

The memo from Gates to his then-boss, CIA Director William J. Casey, was among a selection of declassified documents from the 1980s Iran-Contra scandal posted Friday on the website of the National Security Archive.

In the memo, Gates, who was deputy director of the CIA, argued that the Soviet Union was turning Nicaragua into an armed camp and that the country could become a second Cuba. The rise of the communist-leaning Sandinista government threatened the stability of Central America, Gates asserted.

Gates' memo echoed the view of many foreign policy hard-liners at the time; however, the feared communist takeover of the region never materialized.

Link to Nov. 25, 2007 LA Times article by Julian E. Barnes.

Snip from "CIA and Assassinations: The Guatemala 1954 Documents," by Kate Doyle and Peter Kornbluh, from the GWU National Security Archives, printed on 14 August 1997:

These documents, including an instructional guide on assassination found among the training files of the CIA's covert "Operation PBSUCCESS," were among several hundred records released by the Agency on May 23, 1997 on its involvement in the infamous 1954 coup in Guatemala. After years of answering Freedom of Information Act requests with its standard "we can neither confirm nor deny that such records exist," the CIA has finally declassified some 1400 pages of over 100,000 estimated to be in its secret archives on the Guatemalan destabilization program. (The Agency's press release stated that more records would be released before the end of the year.) An excerpt from the assassination manual appears on the Op-Ed page of The New York Times on Saturday, May 31, 1997.

The small, albeit dramatic, release comes more than five years after then CIA director Robert Gates declared that the CIA would "open" its shadowy past to post-cold war public scrutiny, and only days after a member of the CIA's own historical review panel was quoted in the New York Times as calling the CIA's commitment to openness "a brilliant public relations snow job." (See Tim Weiner, "C.I.A.'s Openness Derided as a 'Snow Job'," The New York Times, May 20, 1997, p. A16)

Arbenz was elected President of Guatemala in 1950 to continue a process of socio- economic reforms that the CIA disdainfully refers to in its memoranda as "an intensely nationalistic program of progress colored by the touchy, anti-foreign inferiority complex of the 'Banana Republic.'"

The first CIA effort to overthrow the Guatemalan president--a CIA collaboration with Nicaraguan dictator Anastacio Somoza to support a disgruntled general named Carlos Castillo Armas and codenamed Operation PBFORTUNE--was authorized by President Truman in 1952. As early as February of that year, CIA Headquarters began generating memos with subject titles such as "Guatemalan Communist Personel to be disposed of during Military Operations," outlining categories of persons to be neutralized "through Executive Action"--murder--or through imprisonment and exile.

The "A" list of those to be assassinated contained 58 names--all of which the CIA has excised from the declassified documents.

Link to story.

Snip from a related New York Times story from 1997 about the CIA records release announced by Gates in the '90s (thousands of documents about the CIA's history with Iran were "lost" by the agency, but critics said they were methodically destroyed):

The CIA has proved that it can release history-altering documents. On Friday, it declassified 1,400 pages on the Guatemala coup in 1954 and two historical papers, including [historian and former CIA staffer Nick Cullather]'s 116-page account of the operation.

Cullather said the records on which he based his work were preserved only by a quirk of history: a lawsuit seeking the documents, filed under the Freedom of Information Act in 1982 by Steven Schlesinger, an author of "Bitter Fruit: The Untold Story of the American Coup in Guatemala," (Doubleday, 1982).

"The CIA is presenting the Guatemala release as evidence of good faith and openness," Cullather said, "but it's the exception."

He said the breadth and depth of the documents' preservation "generally doesn't happen with CIA operations."

Using the documents preserved by the lawsuit, Cullather produced an astonishingly frank account, written in 1993 and printed in 1994, which may be a high-water mark in CIA openness.

His account says the CIA directly lied to President Dwight Eisenhower when it told him that only one of the agency-backed rebels had died in the Guatemala coup. In fact, at least 43 rebels were killed. The account also says the Guatemala operation, which "went into agency lore as an unblemished triumph," was marked by poor security, bad planning and third-rate reporting.

It describes the leaders installed by the CIA as repressive and corrupt. The coup, it says, destroyed the political center in Guatemala, which "vanished from politics into a terrorized silence," and led to a series of brutal military governments and a "cycle of violence and reprisals" that "claimed the lives of a U.S. ambassador, two U.S. military attaches and as many as 10,000 peasants" in the 1960s.

"The CIA never learned from the experience," Cullather said, so the Guatemala coup became a model for the disastrous Bay of Pigs operation. "Legend replaced reality. It's a classic case of the CIA not learning from its own history," a history that was secret.

Link to "CIA Destroyed Files on 1953 Iran Coup" by Tim Weiner in the May 29, 1997 issue of The New York Times.

Technorati Tags:

Labels:

December 04, 2006

Guatemala: Menchú forms indigenous political party

Human Rights advocate and 1992 Nobel Peace Prize winner Rigoberta Menchú Tum today announced during a visit to Costa Rica that she is forming an indigenous political party in Guatemala.

The goal: win power in the 2012 general elections, and rule Guatemala. Rough translation from Spanish:

“I will be one of the people involved in the development of this party, which is now at its formative point”, declared Menchú. She assured that the indigenous people of Guatemala, who are 60% of Guatemala's 12.2 million inhabitants, will look to emulate the example of Bolivia's president, Evo Morales.
Link

Technorati Tags: ,

Labels:

Guatemala: veladoras (video clip)


Quick video snapshot of devotional candles on an altar in a Catholic church frequented by Mayan faithful, in Guatemala. Link to video (in Flash or Quicktime).

Shot with ultracompact Canon SD630 PowerShot, and edited in iMovie on a Mac.

Still snapshots: one, two.

Veladoras

Technorati Tags: , , ,

Labels:

Guatemala: Terremoto

Petén detail

According to the USGS, a moderate earthquake (5.9) hit Guatemala Sunday. It was centered about 60 miles southwest of the capital on the Pacific coast, and felt in the highlands. No damage reports at this time. Link to English report.

BTW, here's the organization that issues earthquake data in Guatemala -- it's their USGS, if you will: INSIVUMEH stands for Instituto Nacional de Sismologia, Vulcanologia, Meteorologia y Hidrologia, or "National Institute of Seismology, Vulcanology, Meteorology, and Hydrology." No, they do not study Spock: the "vulcanology" part refers to volcanoes. The INSIVUMEH site seems to be on the fritz right now, but this other website shows a list of volcanoes in the country. There are many here.

Technorati Tags:

Labels:

Guatemala: snapshot studies in Petén

Link to set.

Petén detail

Petén detail

Platanos

Roof constrasts

Petén detail: Platanos


Technorati Tags: , ,

Labels:

Guatemala: Medical aid for Mayan communities near Lake Atitlán

Reader Gil Mobley says,
I hope your travels in Guatemala take you to Lake Atitlán. I am a physician that helped start/re-open the hospital that serves our hemisphere's largest community of indigenous people of one tribe: the Tz'tujil Mayans of Santiago Atitlán. Prior to our assistance, the area had among the highest maternal mortality rate in the hemisphere. Check out our story on www.puebloapueblo.org, please. After a miraculous opening, the facility was destroyed by a killer mudslide just a year ago. That didn't keep us down for long, as you'll read on the website.

Because of their geologic isolation and sheer numbers, (35,000) these Mayans have held on to their ancient culture more than any other.

One of my main jobs, currently, is to recruit docs to volunteer at the hospital to help and train the indigenous docs. I sponsor a continuing medical education course for state-side docs to learn 3rd world medicine and expose service volunteer opportunities in the area. As such, I love to tell the stories of the Tz'tujil Mayas and introduce my guests to a fascinating array of culture. That's the story behind www.tropicalmedicine101.com. The docs come to learn medicine and fall in love with the people. They then become donors of meds, equipment or money or come back to volunteer their time, the ultimate goal!

Image: "T'zutujil Maya traditional first bathing of a baby."

I asked how folks who wanted to volunteer could get in touch -- drgilmob at yahoo dot com is best. He adds, "I lead non-medical group building-trips to Guatemala's highlands regularly as well. That is how we rebuilt the hospitalito. Anyone can help!"

Also on Dr. Mobley's website, this personal account of the mudslides in October, 2005, written and photo-documented by a visiting doctor: Link

Technorati Tags: ,

Labels:

Guatemala: Film - Killer's Paradise

Another documentary I want to get my hands on soon, this one about the increasing number of "femicides" in Guatemala (nearly 600 women killed in 2006 alone, see this previous post). Snip:
Olenka Frenkiel and Giselle Portenier (Murder in Purdah, Israel’s Secret Weapon) document the story of the brutal killings of women in Guatemala. Since 1999, more than 2,000 women have been murdered there, with the numbers rising every year. In 2005 alone, 640 women, nearly two a day, were killed. That’s one woman in every twelve thousand murdered last year, almost ten times as many, per capita, as in Britain. And in Guatemala, the murders are rarely investigated. Few statistics are kept, details rarely are logged, potential forensic evidence is often ignored or contaminated, so the killers invariably go free and no one, not even the country’s president, has any idea who they are or why so many women are murdered. The answer, at least in part, is the failure of Guatemalan authorities to pursue justice for perpetrators of abuses during a civil war which killed 200,000 people. Three generations of killers have gone free; though the country is trying to show it has changed, old habits die hard. KILLER’S PARADISE documents the story of Claudina Isabel Velasquez, a 19 year old law student murdered in summer 2005, as her family urges the authorities to investigate who killed her.
Link (via Human Rights Watch, thanks Rudy Giron)

Technorati Tags: , ,

Labels:

Guatemala: Film - Estrellas de la Linea


This film looks amazing -- it screened in Antigua on Saturday, but I was elsewhere. Chema Rodríguez' "Estrellas de la Linea," or "The Railroad All-Stars," documents the lives of a group of Guatemalan sex workers who work an area near the railroad that passes through Guatemala City on its way to the country's eastern and western boundaries. Snip:

All of them dream of being treated with respect, and that the violence against them will end.

In order to publicise their plight – that also includes regular police harassment – they decide to found a football team. After weeks of training, they register for a local championship. But they are barred from taking part – simply because they are prostitutes. Their disqualification unleashes some hefty controversy that has a significant effect on their lives.

“We are women and mothers first, prostitutes second”, is the pronouncement at the top of their list of demands.

Link, another link, and another link with trailers.

Technorati Tags: , ,

Labels: