Guatemala: Volcán De Fuego
I've been traveling all over the country since I arrived last week, but for now I'll just post pics of Antigua, which has been more or less my home base between treks. Much of what I'm doing elsewhere involves stories I'm not ready to share yet.
Here in Antigua, one of the nearby volcanoes (specifically, the Volcán De Fuego, 3763 m and S/SW of town) has been belching humo y polvo for a few days. I overheard some local residents saying there was lava action, too, but I haven't gone up there to see first-hand.
This activity is pretty mellow. But one resident explained to me that whenever it acts up more seriously, the most vulnerable community is a little village called Yepocapa, which sits at the volcano's northwest slope (it's on the opposite side of the volcano from Antigua, and much closer to the lava source).
We saw a lot of smoke on Wednesday, even when we were traveling through the lowlands and sugar cane plantations further south... azucarero country.
This pic above from today is kind of a crappy snapshot, but you can see that there's a steady, grey stream of smoke rising from the peak, even in full light at midday. Link.
The volcano is about the warmest thing in town right now. There's been an extreme cold wave in Guatemala this past week -- the coldest in 15 years, with really strong winds. On Thursday, some places dropped as low as 32 degrees. Places like Huehuetenango, Sololá, and Quetzaltenango were hit the worst, and the capital was pretty bad, too. One resident told me today that like 10 or so people have died from the cold -- some of the worst hit are urban poor who live on the streets or in makeshift "casas de carton," shelters from cardboard and plastic sheeting, no real protection from the elements.
Here's an article about the cold wave in Prensa Libre: "El día más frío de noviembre," Link.
FWIW, it's night now, and I'm really frickin' cold. (Image: Xeni Jardin)
Labels: Guatemala

2 Comments:
Xeni, I hope you can be there on Dec 6 or 7 I forget which, for the "quema del diablo" when they burn trash as a symbolic burning of the devil. I saw it from Santa Lucia Milpas Altas not far from Antigua looking down the valley toward Antigua, just hundreds of little fires throughout the valley, and found it very impressive in a Guatemalan sort of way.
I was a Peace Corps Volunteer and later trainer for about 6 years in Guatemala in the 90s and remember hanging out in Antigua whenever I could find time to get away. Your pictures show me that the place hasn't changed at all.
I hope you can get away from Antigua and out to some of the less traveled parts. Salama is one of my favorite towns in Guatemala. Above the city is a cemetery where I used to take trainees to one of the most poignant reminders of the war. There was a large concrete cylinder, looked like a water tank, painted with a scene from a day when the army slaughtered an entire village near there. The painting was done by survivors and looks like it was done by children, with gruesome acts that look almost innocent or comical because of the lack of sophistication in painting them. I don't remember the name of the village it commemorates and I don't even know if the memorial is still there.
Plus, if you want some real tortillas, you have to get out of the city. The farther away from large population centers you get, the better the tortillas are. The best tortillas are in tiny aldeas that take all day to get to.
Xeni: Fire volcano becomes very active every year around the same time. The activity increases in January. You can see this photo and others where I show the activity of the volcano. You can also see other photos that publish every day about Antigua Guatemala. By the way, La quema del diablo (burning of the devil) is on December 7th and it is celebrated in many towns in Guatemala. Good luck on your trip.
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